Tabla de cortar de teca End Grain apoyada de pie sobre el canto en una cocina mediterránea

Cutting boards

How to care for a wooden board so it lasts a lifetime

A well cared for board lasts decades. A neglected one lasts two years. The difference is four habits you can learn in five minutes.

Updated on September 22, 2026 9 min Luis Riestra

A well cared for board lasts decades. A neglected one lasts two years and ends up with a crack down the middle.

The difference is not the price and not the wood. It is four habits you can learn in five minutes and then do without thinking.

We have been selling teak, olive wood and acacia boards for years, and the questions we get are almost always the same. Which oil do I use? Can it go in the dishwasher? Why has it turned grey? They are all answered here, in the order you will need them.

The three enemies: water, heat and neglect

The wood in your board is still alive. It takes in moisture from the air and releases it again, changing volume as it does. That movement is normal and you are not going to stop it. The problem shows up when it is sudden, or when it only happens on one side.

Water is the first one. Not the water from a quick wash, but soaking: the board left sitting in the sink for half an hour, or the one that is washed and left flat on a wet worktop. The underside does not dry, the top does, and the board curves towards whichever side lost more water.

Heat is the second, and it is the one that causes cracks. A radiator underneath, direct sun through the window, a dishwasher at 60 degrees. The wood loses moisture too fast and contracts. Because it cannot contract evenly in every direction, it splits.

The third is neglect. A board that has gone months without oil loses its barrier against water. It stops repelling it and starts absorbing it. From there, everything else happens faster.

Day one: season the board before you use it

A new board arrives with a factory coat of oil that is enough for the journey and not much else. Before you cut anything, give it a proper first treatment.

Wash it with warm water and a little mild soap, dry it with a cloth and leave it in the air for an hour. Once it is completely dry, apply food grade mineral oil generously: a well soaked cloth or kitchen paper, on both faces and all four edges.

Food grade mineral oil, applied with kitchen paper on both faces and all four edges
Food grade mineral oil, applied with kitchen paper on both faces and all four edges.

The edges drink the most and are the part almost everyone skips. We keep insisting on them because that is where water gets in when you wash it.

Let it soak in overnight. In the morning, wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. Repeat once a day for the first week.

It sounds like a lot of work. It is one week, and you will never do it that intensively again.

Which oil to use, and which one ruins it

Food grade mineral oil. It is sold in pharmacies and hardware shops, it is clear, it has no smell and it costs very little. It is inert, so it does not go rancid.

What you should not use, and this is the mistake we see most often: olive oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil or any cooking oil. They are fats that oxidise. It starts within days, and in two to four weeks the board is sticky and smells rancid, that old rag smell that never comes out again.

It is counterintuitive, we know. You have an olive wood board, you have olive oil in the kitchen and it seems like the obvious thing. Do not do it. With teak it is exactly the same, and with olive wood utensils too.

Board balms also work, mixing mineral oil with beeswax. They protect a little more and feel nicer, but they cost considerably more and have to be applied to a warm board. For everyday use, plain mineral oil is perfectly fine.

How often to oil: the water drop test

Forget calendars. Drop a few drops of water in the middle of the board and watch what happens.

The water drop test
The water drop test: if the water beads up, the board is still protected.

If they bead up on the surface, the board is protected. If they spread out and the wood darkens at that spot, it is thirsty.

As a rough guide, and this varies with how much you use it:

  • First week: daily
  • First month: once a week
  • After that: once a month

There is another sign that works too and does not even need water. If the wood looks pale, whitish or dull, it needs oil. A well fed board has a warm tone and a living grain. When it looks matte and colourless, give it a coat.

The same board well fed and unoiled
The same board well fed and unoiled. The dull tone is the sign that it is thirsty.

The thirty second wash

After each use, warm water and a little mild soap with a sponge. Both sides. Dry it straight away with a cloth, both sides again.

And here is what almost nobody does, and it makes the biggest difference: leave it to finish drying standing up, resting on one edge. Never flat. That way air circulates equally on both faces and the board does not curve. Against the wall behind the worktop, in the drying rack, in the gap between two units. Any upright position works.

Standing on its edge, never flat
Standing on its edge, never flat. This is the habit that stops the board from warping.

If you have cut raw chicken or fish, wash with hot water and soap. If you want to be certain, rub half a lemon over the surface afterwards and rinse.

There is plenty to say about the hygiene of wood, and we explain it in wooden or plastic cutting board?, because what the research says runs exactly against what most people believe.

The five nevers

Dishwasher.Pressurised water, aggressive detergent and a heated drying cycle, all three at once. It is the worst thing that can happen to a wooden board. It does not just come out looking worse: it cracks.

Soaking.Never leave it sitting in water in the sink. Not even five minutes.

Drying flat.It is the mistake that warps more boards than any other.

Radiator, oven or direct sun.Keep it somewhere airy at normal room temperature.

Bleach and strong degreasers.They raise the grain and eat the oil. Mild soap and nothing else.

Stains and smells

Garlic, onion and fish leave smells. Beetroot, blackberries and turmeric leave colour. Neither one is permanent.

Coarse salt and half a lemon
Coarse salt and half a lemon: the juice neutralises the smell and the salt acts as a gentle abrasive.

For smells: coarse salt over the surface, half a lemon, and scrub with the lemon as if it were a sponge. The juice neutralises and the salt acts as a gentle abrasive. Rinse, dry and oil.

For stains: bicarbonate of soda with a few drops of water to make a paste, rub in circles with a cloth, leave it for ten minutes and rinse. If the stain is old, sand very gently with fine grit paper, always along the grain, and then oil generously.

After any deep clean, always oil. You have removed the stain, but you have also taken off part of the protection.

Where to keep it

Standing up or hanging, in an airy cupboard or out on the worktop. Both options work.

What is worth avoiding is the closed drawer right under the oven or next to the dishwasher, where it takes steam and heat every time you use them. And if you live on the coast, with high humidity most of the year, check the oil a little more often than the table below says.

Your maintenance schedule

When What you do
After every use Hand wash, dry with a cloth and leave standing on its edge
First week with the board Oil daily
First month Oil once a week
Every month Oil, or whenever the drop test fails
Every 6 months Check edges and corners, oil more generously
As needed Salt and lemon for smells, bicarbonate of soda for stains

When something has already gone wrong

Surface cracks, a warped board, dark stains that bicarbonate of soda will not shift. Almost all of it can be fixed and nothing needs throwing away, and we go through it step by step in how to save a cracked or warped board.

And if you are deciding which board to buy, in our guide to choosing the right wood you will find the differences between teak, olive wood, acacia and End Grain.

If you are looking for a board that will take this treatment for decades

We work with teak, olive wood and acacia, and with End Grain boards, the ones that treat a knife edge best.

See the Cutting Boards

Frequently asked questions

Can I use olive oil on an olive wood board?No. The board being olive wood changes nothing: olive oil oxidises just the same and within a few weeks it leaves the wood sticky and smelling rancid. Use food grade mineral oil.

How often should a wooden board be oiled?Daily for the first week, once a week for the first month and once a month after that. The real test is to drop a few drops of water on it: if they spread out instead of staying on the surface, it is time to oil.

Can a wooden board go in the dishwasher?No. Pressurised water, detergent and heated drying make the wood contract suddenly and it cracks. Hand wash and dry immediately.

Why has my board warped?Almost always because it dried more on one side than the other, and that happens when you leave it flat on the worktop after washing it. Dry it with a cloth and leave it standing on its edge.

How do I get garlic or fish smell out of a board?Coarse salt over the surface and half a lemon, scrubbing. Rinse, dry and oil. If the smell is very stubborn, repeat and let the salt sit for ten minutes before scrubbing.

How long does a well cared for wooden board last?With this maintenance, decades. A solid wood board does not wear out with use: cuts close up again and the surface can be sanded and re oiled as many times as needed. What kills a board is the dishwasher or neglect.

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